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General info
The Devil’s Heads (Čertový hlavy, in Czech) are two monumental sculptures, each around 9 m tall, carved into the sandstone rock.
Located in the village of Želízy, approximately 10 kilometers from the town of Mělník in Central Bohemia, they are among the most popular tourist attractions near Prague, making it an ideal spot for a day trip.
These sculptures were created by the artist Václav Levý between 1841 and 1846, and they depict two giant devil’s heads.
Levý is recognized as one of the most significant Czech sculptors of the 19th century, and other of his works are displayed in Prague in the Church of St. Cyril and Methodius in Karlín, and in the Cathedral of St. Vitus at the castle.
Čertový hlavy and Kokořín forest
Access to the Čertový hlavy is entirely free.
The are clearly visible from the main road in Želízy, and can be reached by following the blue tourist trail.
Beyond these sculptures lies the magnificent Kokořín Forest, part of the Kokořínsko–Máchův protected area, wwhich offers numerous hiking and biking trails along with a variety of sandstone formations.
To continue your walk through the forest, follow the blue trail south to reach the Klácelka Cave, where you can see additional rock reliefs of famous Czech figures.
Among them are Jan Žižka, a Hussite military leader, after whom the Žižkov district of Prague is named, and Prokop Holý, also known as Prokop the Great, another Hussite general.
You will also find fantastical symbols with human or animal characteristics from the fable Lišák Ferina (The Wild Fox) by František Matouš Klácel, after whom the cave is named.
On the opposite side of the valley, you can follow the blue trail north or take the yellow trail to discover more intrigung reliefs by Václav Levý, including the snake Had, a sphinx, and a woman with a harp (harfenice, in Czech).
How to get there
The location is easily accessible even without a car.
To reach the site, take one of the many trains from Prague to Mělník then transfer to bus 369, 400, 691, or 692 to Želízy. Be sure to check the schedule on pubtran.cz before starting your journey.
Traveling by public transport takes about 2 hours, while driving takes approximately 1 hour.
You can hike up above the heads to enjoy a sweeping panorama of the surrounding countryside and Mělník, featuring its hilltop castle and power plant in the background.
On clear days, you may even catch a glimpse of the famous Říp Hill.
