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Jizerka is the highest settlement in the Jizerské hory (Jizera Mountains) at 862m, located near the border of the Czech Republic with Poland.
The village is today part of a conservation area and protected landscape and features a few mostly wooden cottages scattered in a picturesque valley along the Jizera river.
The area reached prosperity in the 19th century, when two glassworks were established, that produced glass rods and quartz glass.
After World War II Jizerka declined and many residents left.
Although it remained relatively abandoned, the village retained its charm and was gradually revitalized.
The whole area around Jizerka is very peaceful, quiet and rich in natural beauty.
The valley, also called the “darkness reserve”, is an oasis of silence and stars.
Jizerka has no public lighting and an area of 75 km² is kept dark to prevent light pollution, making ideal for stargazing.
Historical sights to see in Jizerka:
- Hnojový dům (the Manure house), which became famous thanks to Gustav Ginzel, a mountaineer, traveler, photographer and collector of curiosities. Today the building is not accessible, nevertheless it is interesting to see it from the outside and know its history.
- The former glassworks building, the only one made of stone, commemorates the glassmaking past of this area. Today it is a guesthouse and sports hall.
- The Jizerské hory Museum, located in the former school building, where you can learn about the history of Jizerka and the local settlement. It is open on weekends from May to October or by prior arrangement.
- Panský dům (the Manor house), today a mountain hotel and restaurant.
- The Pyramid, a building constructed around 1820, that originally served as accommodation for glassmakers who worked at the local smelters. It was converted into a hotel with restaurant.
The hike to Bukovec and Jizerka
Bukovec is a basalt hill standing at 1005 m and is the dominant feature of Jizerka.
To reach it, we created a 15km loop hike from and to the Souš reservoir. It is not a strenuous walk, but until Bukovec is mostly all uphill, on sand and stones.
The trail begins on an asphalt road following the blue signs, then it turns almost immediately into the forest.
Keep on this path, also called Hřebenovka, all the way until the parking at “Pod Bukovcem” (point 2 on the map). Many people choose this spot as a starting point to visit the surroundings.
At the parking, switch to the green trail that will bring you up to the top of Bukovec.
They say that in clear days the view from there is beautiful, and that it is possible to see as far as the Krkonoše mountains.
From my photos it is clear that was not our case, as we hiked in a foggy day, which in turn transformed everything into a mystical experience.
After descending, the path connects to the main asphalt road that leads to Jizerka, and it passes in front of few of the sites mentioned above.
Upon reaching the stone building of the ex glassworks, you will see a bunch of cute and fluffy Highland cattle – turn onto the yellow “Jezdecká cesta” (at point 4 on the map) to get a closer look!
Keep going until the view point with funny stones (point 5), and further on to the crossroad (point 6), where you turn left to the “Knížecí cesta” to finally return back to the blue Hřebenovka.
Before returning to the car, we stopped for a late lunch, or early dinner, at Montanie restaurant.
The food and the place were very nice, and the service was better than the usual Czech standard.
The prices can be too high for someone, just keep in mind that the place is open year-round, it is in the middle of nowhere, and does serve proper food (not just sausages or fried stuff).
How to reach the starting point of the hike
There is a big parking in Souš for 100kč/day, with a kiosk where to buy food and drinks, but we opted for a free area in Na Novině. Being out of season, it was pretty safe, with no traffic ,and nobody bothered.
If you are travelling by public transport, I would advise you to skip this particular hike, as the buses from Desná and Tanvald do not have a convenient schedule, especially for the way back.
You can still visit Jizerka and Bukovec with any of the buses that reach the parking “Pod Bukovcem” (bus stop “Kořenov, Jizerka“), which is only 1km from the village.
I hope you enjoy visiting this forgotten area and its beautiful nature.
